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Little Water – how refreshing! Here at last is an independent restaurant in the heart of Covent Garden theatreland – and it’s about as chilled as they come. Even better, it’s welcoming and serves affordable, tasty small plates. But surrounded by big gun chain restaurants like Strada, Jamie’s and Loch Fyne, or well-established oldies like Orso and Joe Allen, it feels like a minnow. You just hope it won’t sink or get gobbled up.

Little Water Covent Garden

A recent food piece in the NYT quoted a celeb Korean chef as saying “the tastiest chicken is the one that’s been slaughtered the same day” – or words to that effect. Fat chance of that happening in London, rare in the depths of the English countryside, but I do know of a restaurant in the wilds of Andalucia where you can virtually pick your chick, let alone eat it the same day. Very appropriate for our imminent Easter fest (apologies for this pic of a turkey, but it was waiting in the kitchen in question).