This unusual pueblo blanco sits high on a hill 20km or so from the Atlantic and barely 40km from Cádiz, the provincial capital. Typically for Andalucia, Medina Sidonia is topped by a ruined medieval castle, but what is different here are the views. They unfold endlessly southwest over plains and marshes to the coast, the ocean and beyond that to Morocco. The town is also unique in that its long history dates back millennia to the Phoenicians – hence ‘Sidonia’ which refers to the Lebanese port of Sidon, their origin. ‘Medina’ is Arabic for town.
Today it’s home to a relaxed little community of 11000 odd inhabitants, a maze of narrow streets, many strenuously uphill, but all revolving around its heart – the Plaza de España. Above all it’s a crossroad of cultures – of tapas and of pastries. And never forget the disgraced Duke of Medina Sidonia who led (and lost) the Armada against the English navy in 1588.
Roman beginnings
Apart from the foundations of the hilltop castle, it’s the Archaeological Museum that reveals ingenious Roman remains from the 1st century. There’s a long covered passageway, underground rooms, sewers (luckily now dry), sculptures and a segment of flagged road in a separate building. All well displayed, though get there early to avoid group tours.
Al-Andalus returns
Move on a few centuries to Al-Andalus, the Moorish period, and you’ll see it reflected in some attractive pottery in the museum. For more of this heyday, circle round town to admire the beautiful 10th century Arco de la Pastora, a perfect horseshoe arch framing a broad stairway. Incongruously it conceals a glassed-in image of a shepherdess (la pastora) – added after the Catholic conquest in 1264. It’s just one of three arches that once formed part of the city walls. Another is the Arco de Belén (Bethlehem Arch), further uphill, which opens onto the church of Santa María la Mayor Coronada. Unfortunately this one lost all its Moorish features to over-restoration.
Pastries with a Moorish flavour
But on to food. Medina Sidonia is known for its pastries – above all the alfajor de Medina, a relic of Moorish cuisine when the town was famed for its confectionery. The alfajor includes almonds, honey, hazelnuts, breadcrumbs and a cornucopia of spices all packed into a delicious, spicy roll. The best place to find them is Sobrina de las Trejas on the Plaza de España.
Other sweet delicacies are sold at the convent of San Cristobal y Santa Rita on Calle de San Juan, the lively shopping street. Here, tucked away in a courtyard, you’ll find a traditional grid window showing off a seductive selection. Ring the bell and a nun materialises. A smile, a few euros, and the marzipan sweets are all yours. Then take a peep at the flashy baroque altarpiece (above) in the adjoining church.
And then came tapas of course
On to tapas and it’s well worth trying out the welcoming, unostentacious Bar Llanete, right opposite Medina’s smartest hotel, the Casa Palacio Medina Sidonia. (Highly recommended for spacious rooms and generous breakfasts.) On the little square we sat outside to tuck into Llanete’s delicious portion of alcachofas con jamón and a pretty plate of seasoned boquerones – plus a refreshing clara (shandy).
Further downhill towards the Plaza de España is the recommended Bar El Gũitri – but que pena, it was closed on a Monday night. Earlier in the day we had stopped off at the quirky Bar Capacha near the Archaeological Museum – a wonderful time-capsule of vintage Andalucia. Here they serve churros for breakfast before segueing into traditional tapas – plus excellent local wine. Go for their flamenquín – a crunchy battered roll of ham, pork and oozy cheese – and admire the random eccentricities of the bar.
Avoiding the mediocre La Fabrica on the main drag, head for Bar Cádiz, a small-scale restaurant and bar spilling out onto the Plaza de Espaňa. Here the ageing owner keeps a keen eye on his cheerful young waiters. Now famished, I dived into another classic – lamb cutlets and chips. Sounds basic (it is), but the perfectly cooked dish really hit the spot after an exhausting day exploring this magical town. And a glass of Ribera del Duero sustained the revival.
Out of Medina Sidonia
For a more inventive, upscale lunch or dinner you need to head south of town on the A-396 to the vast Venta La Duquesa – hardly cosy, rustic in style, but Michelin-endorsed and serving some delicious salads and meat dishes. Just a little further, in the village of Los Badalejos, I can highly recommend the popular Venta El Soldao for superlative rice dishes, a matriarch cook-owner, Teresa, now in her 90s, and much much more – their traditional recipes even feature in my book Andaluz.
The only problem with Medina Sidonia is negotiating your exit by car. No road-signs anywhere, so we had to keep asking – and asking. But local affability will eventually spirit you on your way. And if you time it right, you might just catch a dazzling sunset on your way to the coast, the aptly named Costa de la Luz (coast of light).
