After a few days in Helsinki, Europe’s northernmost capital, I decided this has to be the most civilised city in Europe. Over time it has gained numerous epithets – “most sustainable”, “friendliest”, “happiest”, “most child friendly” – but to me it seemed, above all, “calmest”. Gone are the never-ending road repairs or phone-snatchers of London, the preening of Paris, the high decibel chatter of Madrid or the heavy tourist foot-fall of Rome. In Helsinki everything is efficient, clean, attractive and feels perfectly managed.
I was there to research a feature for The Guardian on the city’s foodie boom – seasonal, organic and actually affordable (because not everything there is). Here it is – with lots of hot tips on where to go.
As a predictable aside, reindeer pops up everywhere – even in the form of fast food…
Nordic climes
This was my first visit to Finland which has always intrigued me after hearing about my father’s extraordinary adventure there during the little-known Winter War against the Soviet Union. You can read my article about it in the New Statesman here.
In fact I only know Scandinavia through Denmark – an equally fair, prosperous society which I have visited on and off over the years. It started with childhood holidays, later with press trips. Read my impressions here (focusing on design) and here (oyster foraging) and here (Hamlet at Elsinore). And you can’t miss the fabulous Louisiana museum.
But one thing the Danes don’t have is – saunas!!
Saunas
Saunas seem to be in the Finns’ DNA, leading me to discover why the Japanese make up a good percentage of Helsinki’s tourists. The reason? They share the same minimalist aesthetic as the Finns that the great Alvar Aalto (1898-1976) pioneered in Europe. But not only that – they too love their saunas. So this Finnish obsession possibly adds another superlative to the list – “cleanest”?
In Aalto’s words “Finland is the home of the sauna; it is almost the only genuine Finnish cultural phenomenon.” (1925)
I was amazed to discover that in this country that stretches far into the Arctic Circle there are estimated to be over 3 million saunas. That’s a lot, particularly when the population is under 6 million. Speaking to locals, I learn that every apartment block has a community sauna, and many people have one inside their home as well. Offices, too, pamper their staff by offering enviable sauna facilities.
Here the sauna is often part of the daily routine, like brushing your teeth – a fantastically hygienic and uplifting start to, or end to, the day. Invigorating too, particularly if you follow the tradition of thrashing yourself or your companion(s) with a bunch of birch leaves. And swimwear is optional though theoretically everyone should be naked – all the better to sweat.
You can even enjoy a swelter in a cabin while circling on Helsinki’s SkyWheel, go to a sauna bar or a sauna restaurant (try the heaving Loyly) – then dive straight into the icy Baltic. Fearless Finns indeed.
Peerless architecture peaks
Saunas aside, it is architecture that stands out. From the impeccably maintained Central Station designed by Eliel Saarinen in the early 20th century to Aalto’s Finlandia Hall (1971), it is outstanding.
Inside the art nouveau station it’s a pleasure to walk beneath the soaring ceiling and elegant chandeliers; the only hitch is finding the left luggage lockers that are buried down below (luckily there’s a lift – very thoughtful).
King of them all is Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall. After nearly three years of renovation it has now reopened its doors, totally refreshed and open to the public. This gesamtkunstwerk, completed shortly before he died in 1976, perfectly illustrates Aalto‘s ethos as every detail and item of furniture bears his signature. Pristine white spaces are replete with marble, brass fittings, columns wrapped in curved ceramic tiles, illuminated by huge windows – and altogether a bow to the beauty of asymmetry. Here too is a new, enlightening exhibition that covers his life, work & the country’s ingrained affinity with wood.
Right beside the massive white edifice sits Pikku Finlandia (‘Little Finlandia’), a timber structure that has temporarily hosted events during renovation. Its waterfront café has been a big hit but in late 2025 it’s due to be dismantled and moved. Yet again proof that in sustainable Finland nothing goes to waste.
Oodi – Helsinki’s avant garde Central Library
Oodi looks out towards Aalto’s masterpiece and the bay across a recreation area of lawns and playgrounds – yet more proof of Finland’s social awareness. The main entrance is phenomenal, a sweeping, swooping curve of wood (never forget that 75% of Finland is forested). On entering (free to all) you will spot robot-carts returning books to shelves, chess-players by the huge windows (natural light is treasured), studious Finns inside work pods, sewing-machines for anyone to use – even a recording studio with a choice of electric guitars.
Then come the 100,000 books, many in foreign languages as well as aisles of current press whether Finnish or foreign (The Guardian Weekly, Homes & Gardens & The Economist for Brits!). And as always there’s a café (adding another superlative: the Finns are the biggest consumers of coffee in the world) which looks out onto a broad terrace with panoramic views.
Talk about civic generosity. Impeccably maintained, packed with young and old, Oodi is an example of how a city should nurture its citizens – and perhaps build even further on the ultimate civilised city.
After that, it’s time to head for one of the many mid-range restaurants that are now burgeoning. Wine is pricey, though omnipresent, even in cafés, but tasting menus are reasonable value compared with London. And of course the staff can be nothing other than the friendliest – or is it happiest?
